May 21
was another full day. Many of us found
it tiring partly because of the heat when you go under the sun especially
towards noon, although up at the Temple Mount, the highest place in the Old
City of Jerusalem, you can shiver from the cold when the wind blew. The Temple Mount is an incomparable place. On it once stood king Solomon’s majestic
temple, built around 950 BCE and which was destroyed by the Babylonians in 587
BCE.
The
Second Temple, which was initially a modest building in the 5th century BCE but
was greatly expanded and refurbished by Herod the Great 20 years before Jesus
was born, was destroyed by the Romans in 70 CE.
The Jews
believed that the holiest section of both temples stood on the rock where
Abraham bound Isaac, his son through Sarah, and nearly sacrificed him. Now what stands on that spot is the (golden)
Dome of the Rock, an impressive Islamic shrine and the oldest existing Islamic
building, built in 691 CE. The shrine
commemorates Mohammed's ascension into heaven (temporarily because he
returned).
At the
southern end of the Temple Mount is the Al-Aqsa mosque, Islam's third most
important mosque (after those in Mecca and Medina). The Temple Mount complex is under Islamic
religious authorities.
To go up,
we went through metal detectors. Women
had to be properly dressed. We were told
that there was a fashion police. Women
should not show much skin. Outside the
security check, there was an official sign from the Jewish Rabbinate of
Jerusalem warning that the Temple Mount is such a sacred place that nobody
should go up there. Of course, non-Jews and
secular Jews ignore the warning.
Tourists
could go up there but non-Muslims are forbidden to pray or bring the Bible. But you can peacefully walk around with your
guide and have your pictures taken. You
could see groups of Muslims at prayer or simply touring the place. I was told that during Ramadan and other
important occasions tens of thousands of Muslims would go there.
Entrance
into the Dome and the Mosque has become off-limits to non-Muslims ever since
Defence Minister Ariel Sharon with 150 Israeli bodyguards provocatively climbed
and entered the Temple Mount area in the year 2000 which triggered the 2nd
Intifada uprising from Palestinian Muslims.
It is a pity we could not enter the Dome because the postcard pictures I
bought showed how beautiful it is inside.
From the
Temple Mount we went down to the holiest site that observant Jews could visit,
the Western Wall, which used to be called the Wailing Wall. Ever since Israel occupied the Old City (East
Jerusalem) and took control of it away from Jordan in the aftermath of the
6th-day war in 1967, Jews have preferred to call it the Western Wall, which is
part of the original retaining wall put up by king Herod in order to expand the
esplanade or courtyard of the Temple.
Men and
women had separate sections of the Wall. The men's section was bigger and off-limits to
women. Men have to wear a kipper or
skull cap which is freely provided if you had none. There were many Jews who
were praying in front of the wall, touching it, swaying as they prayed,
inserting small pieces of paper with prayers into the crevices, which were full
of paper. The people were not too many so it was not hard to find a blank spot.
I was able to touch the wall, say a
prayer, and insert my piece of paper.
When I
moved away from the wall, I stayed for another 15 minutes to observe people. It was fascinating to watch devout and
not-so-devout Jews, some with their young sons, praying and singing, also
because they celebrated bar-mitzvahs for 13 year old boys, which means the boys
were considered mature enough to be expected to follow Jewish teachings, a
coming-of-age celebration.
It
reminded me of the importance of the active involvement of the father in the
spiritual and moral formation of his son (and daughter). I resolved that we should make the
confirmation of Sophie and Dennis a special family celebration (and also
Dennis' circumcision when he asks for it).
The
Western Wall was starting to get packed with people as noon approached, and as
more families came to celebrate the bar-mitzvah, carrying small canopies over
the boys, with joyful singing, dancing, and candy-throwing to bystanders.
As a
Filipino, I found it amusing to think that many would decide to celebrate
bar-mitzvah at high noon when, even though the air was cool and dry, the sun
was hot and can be stinging and there were chairs but no tents or trees near
the Western Wall.
Since men
and women had separate sections, the women who came for the bar mitzvahs went
to the divider and climbed on top of their chairs to witness the ceremony for
their sons or brothers. They would sing, clap, make ululation sounds, and throw
candy from the divider. It was touching
to see the boys, some somewhat small for a thirteen year old, carrying the big
heavy scroll of the Torah (5 books of Moses). They now take upon themselves the (sweet) yoke
of God’s Law.
Some
fathers assist their small sons. But you
could see how happy and proud the fathers were, many kissing their sons
affectionately every now and then. Some
of the boys, unsurprisingly, look embarrassed at such display of joy and
affection from their loved ones. The boys
of course were prepared for this day through years of listening to and assisted
reading of the Torah, in some very devout families starting at age of 5. There is something to this: the day when a boy
(or girl) is considered mature enough to be responsible in the realm of faith and
morals should be celebrated as a very joyful day and should be remembered as
such.
The
picture of Deeda, Dennis and Sophie of course came to my mind. I did not ask God for anything specific for
them in the paper I inserted in the Wall. I thanked the Holy One of Blessing for his
Presence fills creation and his wisdom and love are trustworthy as regards our
welfare.
Confirmation
is our closest equivalent to the bar-mitzvah (and maybe circumcision for the
teenage boy) and I am more convinced that it should be celebrated in a more
special way by Catholic families.
Entering
the area of the Western Wall, the Jewish rabbis put up a formal sign declaring
that the Divine Presence is always in the Wall. It was fascinating to see birds entering holes
high in the Wall and plants growing out of it, including one with beautiful
flowers. Glenn told me that those
flowering plants with small fruits were caper bushes. So I shall not look at the capers Deeda serves in our salads the same way
anymore.